Tasting Notes
Vinous 97
The 2012 Dom Perignon is a dense, powerful wine. I am almost shocked by its vinous intensity and raw, unbridled power. The 2012 reminds me of the 2003, but with more finesse and not quite as pushed. Mildew, rain and frost were challenges and resulted in low yields, something that was further compounded by warm, dry weather that concentrated the fruit even more. Those qualities result in a dense Dom Perignon endowed with real phenolic intensity. It is one of the most reticent young Doms I can remember tasting, I wouldn t even think of opening a bottle for at least a few years. (Originally published in May 2021)
Anticipated maturity: 2022-2052
Robert Parker 96
The 2012 Dom Perignon has turned out very well indeed, unwinding in the glass with notes of Anjou pear, smoke, toasted nuts, freshly baked bread and crisp stone fruit. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it’s still tightly wound, its incipiently fleshy core of fruit framed by racy acids and chalky grip, complemented by a classy pinpoint mousse. A touch drier and a touch less reductive than the 2008 out of the gates, these two vintages are clearly destined to be compared for some time to come; but at this early stage, my instinct is that the 2012 will have the edge in the long term.
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2050
Richard Juhlin 96
I had the privilege of tasting the new Dom Perignon with Vincent Chaperon six months before the official launch. Of course, it is then important to point out that the edges of the champagne will have become a little rounder and softer when you take on yet another classic Dom Perignon. What I encounter is nothing less than an architectural masterpiece where I am glad that Richard Geoffroy and Vincent were not tempted to create a more accessible delicious nightclub wine but dared to make a wine that will require additional storage in one s own cellar if you want to enjoy the maximum of its merits. Such a decision is never easy as most of the wonderful bottles of Dom Perignon are unfortunately drunk by party goers who are more interested in image than in the true greatness of the wine. The winemakers have worked with the vintage’s contrasts and extremes and let nerve and excitement have full freedom. Today, the wine is a bit unredeemed and compact like a nervous explosive sprinter waiting for the starting shot in the starting block. The dosage is moderate to add clarity and sharpness to the contrasting flavors. The mousse is nervous and energetic and shows very clearly its role as an aroma carrier of spices and chalky minerals when they crack against the palate and pass the rear nasal passage and give the taste a tickling depth via its inner scent signals. Some of the contrast stems from the high acidity of the cold weather and is somewhat reminiscent of 1996 where the phenolic maturity was not particularly high and provided space for the roasted and mineral-driven secondary aromas. At the same time, there is a roundness without direct creaminess. To create this contrasting symphony, the winemakers used an even higher proportion of Mareuil-sur-Ay, Ay and Chouilly than usual, as these vineyards were particularly successful this year. An extremely interesting wine that will be drunk far too early, as I predict that the quality peak will appear after 2030. If you drink up all your bottles too early, you can take comfort in the fact that the wine will be even better and deeper with all the features retained under the Plenitude 2 label.
JancisRobinson.com 18.5+
The 2012 vintage has a great reputation but it surmounted all sorts of challenges: frost in winter and spring, torrential rains, hailstorms and cold spells while the vines were flowering, plus intense heatwaves during the summer – but at least these last left the grapes healthy. Harvest stretched from 10 to 26 September. As usual, they are tight-lipped about the exact composition of the blend. Classic lemon-zest and tension nose that I associate with Dom Perignon, but with extra weight and depth. And quite marked phenolics on the end which suggest this will have a remarkably long life. And, as Vincent Chaperon readily admitted, will definitely show up as a P2 star. Clean and neat and with light smokiness on the finish. Dom P always plays the reduction card. Hugely impressive persistence. Still a baby.
Anticipated maturity: 2021-2033
